In My Kit

Something I can't live without in my kit, and on my face daily is Boi-ing industrial strength concealer from Benefit Cosmetics.

I have been using this concealer for years, and it has never let me down. 

Boi-ing is toted as an industrial strength concealer, and it is just that, this stuff will cover anything, dark circles, acne, scars, tattoos, you name it, it'll will cover it.

I am a huge fan of the creamy consistency, it's not so creamy that it creases and slides around, but not so dry, that it cakes, and sucks the moisture from your skin, it's as if it were created by Goldie Locks, it's Juuuust Right!

Anyone who knows me, knows I am an advocate for finding your own technique for how to use products, whether you use a brush, sponge, your hand. However I have found that with Boi-ing, as well as with most concealers, it works best to use your fingers to blend. The heat from your skin, helps melt the product, and gives it that perfectly blended out look, and feel.

Another great tip for using Boi-ing, it makes a great highlight, a little on the cheekbones  down the bridge of the nose, center of the forehead and chin, really gives the face a bright look, giving you the look of always having your own spotlight.

Fall Forecast

With fall quickly approaching, (I know, I know, I don't want it to happen either.) I've got my prediction for the hot new fall look.

I'm not one to toot my own horn, but I now a few beauty insiders, and I can say this is a look that is going to be everywhere. This is the kind of Insider Trading you can feel safe about.

As with every season, a flawless complexion is a must, and at Kiss and Makeup, we have all your skincare and foundation must haves, no matter what your skin type.

This Fall, the look is all about impact and perfection.

A softened smokey eye, with a well defined shape, to give your eyes the appearance of the perfect almond shape, and pulling the outer corners of the eye up and out, gives a nice lift, no surgery required!

If the eyes are the window to the soul, than the eyebrows are the frame, and with out a sturdy frame, the whole thing falls apart. A dark, full, well shaped brow is key to framing the eye, and the whole face.

My new favourite product to achieve the best brow, is the Geisha Ink brow liner, it is the newest addition to the Geisha Ink family, and is as amazing as their liners. The brow pen is extremely easy to use, and comes in two shades (light and dark) both with a nice taupe undertone, so your brows won't turn red or black like a lot of other brow products out there.

As well as a well defined eye, a well defined lip is key to a gorgeous fall face.

With Summer still here, we want to hold on to the bright colours we love so much. A rich berry tone is a great way to keep that colour going, without being overwhelmed by a bold lip.

A deep lip is key to this falls hottest trend, it gives the face drama and impact, without over powering the face.

The key to getting a crisp clean lip, is a firm, flat top lip brush and concealer. If this tip confuses you, no worries, it's an insider trick to getting a flawless lip, which I will gladly share with you, just book an appointment with me, and I'll get you all set with a flawless lip, you can easily recreate at home.

Now, you're probably thinking, that's a lot of well defined features going on, isn't it all going to look too harsh??? 

No Silly, the eyes and the lips are everyones best facial features. One or both should always be the focus of your makeup look, plus the rest of the look is soft, so it balances out nicely.

Your perfect complexion is going to soften the look, as well as a soft blush.

Your blush should be light and subtle, but still give the face a hint of colour. A soft peach is going to do just that. Colour on the cheeks makes you look not dead, and an easy way to define the cheek.

With these steps, you'll easily be able to be the most fashionable person this fall, and remember if you need a hand, we can always do it for you.

What products you'll need for this look.

Primitive eyeshadow trio by Vincent Longo

Gioelle Berry Lipstick by Vincent Longo

Sandalwood Powder Blush by Vincent Longo

Black Eyeliner and Mascara by Geisha Ink

Dark Eyebrow Pen by Geisha Ink

Twitter

I know I don't blog as much as I'd like to, or as much as you'd like me to, but follow me on Twitter to see what I'm up to on a daily basis on Twitter

My Dark Secret

Those of you who know me, know I take my craft, and art of makeup very seriously, and I strive for perfection on my clients, and those close to me know I strive for perfection on myself as well.

As the title of this post alludes to, I am about to share with you a secret I share with very few people, and try to hide from the world.

I suffer from eczema, on my arms, hands and worst of all, around my eyes. I have had eczema for a very long time, and have used anything you can think of to try and cure it, or at least keep it at bay. I have used everything from doctor prescribed steroid creams, creams on the market from $100 per ml. to drugstore vaseline.
I have learned what triggers my flare ups, and I try to avoid them, but I'm human, and sometimes I like to indulge, and I pay for it. I have found my triggers to be, in no particular order, sugar, stress and alcohol.

I am not a doctor, and I have no better solutions on how to treat eczema, I'm still struggling with that on a daily basis.

What I can help with is how to hide it, now I know that putting a whack of makeup on top of the eczema in no way helps heal it, and I'm sure it actually prevents it from fully healing, but somedays you just can't leave the house without covering it up.

Enough of my ramblings, and let me show you how I cover my eczema around my eyes. I am posting a before photo, so you can see how it really is, this is something only my parents have seen while I was growing up. So here it is world, me, without a stitch of makeup... sorry!

 

                                                                          ^BEFORE^

                                                                            ^AFTER^

What I use to cover is, i start by hydrating the area, that is your personal preferance. currently I use either Eye-C by Quantum Hydrox or Hydreane Rich by La Roche-Posay, sometimes  I layer both.

 
                 
Hydrating the eczema is key. On my days off, all I do is apply eye creams.

The next step is to cover it, conceal it to be more precise, so for that we need a concealer. One that I have been using for years is Boi-ing from Benefit. I find that it has great coverage, is very long lasting, and not drying.
I layer it on, using my fingers, I find that's the best way to apply concealer, eczema or not, the heat from your body helps blend the product nicely, so it looks natural.
Going one shade lighter then your skin tone will help camouflage the redness, and discoloration. It may look like you have reverse racoon eyes at first, but that's why we put foundation on top.

Once all the redness and blotchiness has been covered, and it's blended to look like it's not caked on, I add my foundation. I have oilier skin, so I use a powder foundation, but a liquid foundation is going to do the same trick, When using a liquid foundation, dab it over the concealer, so not to wipe away all the concealer.
I use a powder brush to apply my powder foundation, and the powder helps to set the concealer, so it stays all day.

I have been using Duo Mat from Make Up For Ever, for years, I love it, so of course they have discontinued it. That being said, they have brought in a new product to replace it, Pro Finish Multi Use Powder Foundation. I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but once I am out of the Duo Mat I've been hording, I'll try it, and it will give me something to write about, so stay tuned.

Once the foundation is on, I want to make sure it stays put all day, nothing bugs me more than having to touch up throughout the day, an oil blot here and there I can deal with.
In order to keep everything set and hydrated, I mist my face, once it's all done, with Mineral Kalla Energy Tonic by Sjal. It is great to use as a toner after you cleanse, great to set your makeup, and even great as a mid day refresher. (We keep a bottle in the fridge at work during the summer to keep cool and fresh).

So that's my routine. It looks long when you spell it all out, and advertise all the products, but it only takes me about 15 minutes to get my face done, and that includes brushing my teeth. Once you get the hang of a routine, you can bang it out in no time flat.

Tata Harper

I am so happy that I get to share this skincare line with you. Tata Harper Skincare is, quite frankly, amazing!

Tata Harper created her all natural skin care line to help people get beautiful skin, but not have to lather their faces in chemicals and non-necessary products.

          "Tata Harper Skincare was founded by Tata Harper on the essential idea that women no   longer have to sacrifice their health to look and feel beautiful. In Vermont on a 1,200 acre farm, she manufactures 100% natural and non-toxic, premium skincare products made from the World’s most sought after ingredients. Some of the ingredients are sourced from around the World, but many are grown on the farm.  All research and development, formulations, packaging, marketing and distribution are done in-house, allowing Tata to control every step of the process, from formulation to shipment to a customer.

Clinical trials and enthusiastic feedback from thousands of health-conscious women confirm that TATA HARPER Skincare offers stunning results without causing harm to women’s bodies. We provide sumptuous, high performance products that women love to use. TATA HARPER is proven to improve vitality, foster radiance, and inspire an overall sense of well-being.

And our Mission continues with you. Join us in this positive, forward-thinking revolution. Read labels and get active. Spread the word about TATA HARPER and the natural and non-toxic skin care movement."

I have had the honor of not just meeting Tata, herself, but to be trained on her line by her. She is one of the nicest people I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. She's beautiful, smart, and very passionate about her line. The training session didn't feel like I was back at school and bored like I have with some other lines, it felt like we were just sitting around chatting, like a book club, but for skincare.

There are 2 of her products I am thrilled to share with you.

Rejuvenating Serum:

I have been using this serum for about 3 months now, and my skin feels amazing. I use it only at night, but it can be used day and night. Even after months of using it, I am always surprised at how great my skin feels, not just when I wake up in the morning, but I feel results in minutes. My skin feels softer, more supple and smooth.

The serum has 29 active ingredients, and no filler products, so everything in the serum is helping your skin, not just filling up the bottle.

The second product I want to talk about isn't just one product. I think this is genius. Tata Harper has a Sample pack of her whole line.

Deluxe Beauty Set:

Is a great idea for people wanting to try the line, let's be honest, her skin care is amazing, but it's not cheap. So if you're looking to see if it really works for you (and trust me, it will!) This set is for you. 

In the set you get deluxe samples of Regenerating Cleanser, Hydrating Floral Essence, Rejuvenating Serum, Rebuilding Moisturizer, Repairative Moisturizer, Replenishing Nutrient Complex, Resurfacing Mask. Plus it come in a cute little pouch.

 One tiny tid bit I want to add about her line, if you're on her website and you're not impressed by the packaging, don't worry, the photos on her website are her old packaging. The current packaging is SO MUCH better, it comes in green glass containers. I know packaging shouldn't be a deciding factor in buying a product, but let's be honest, we want the products to look good on our vanities. 

I get my Tata Harper at Kiss and Makeup in West Vancouver.

 

Halloween Preparation

'Twas the month before Halloween, and all through the house... Ooops, wrong holiday.

Anyway, it's almost Halloween, and for you die hard Halloweeners, you're in full swing planning your
costume, and for those of you who leave it all to the day before (or day of) I hope this will light a fire under your tushies.

We all know makeup can make up your look (pun intended!) or it can destroy a well thought out idea. That is why having an amazing makeup artist is key to winning any costume contest or being the envy of your friends.

Just like in any profession, the best is hard to get, so make sure you book early, to ensure you get a spot.
How do you know you're getting a good makeup artist, and not just someone who shops a lot at MAC?
ASK!

We makeup artists are a very proud bunch, we love sharing our work, and tooting our own horns with all our accomplishments. If you have someone who has no photos of their work, and no experience as an artist, run away!

Finding a makeup artist is easier then you may think, we advertise everywhere, Facebook, Twitter, Caigslist, Model Mayhem, and any other social media or advertising outlet you can think of.

Don't expect a makeup artist to barter or make a deal either, we fill up fast, and a lot of artists think they're airlines, and over book, knowing someone might flake out. There may be a lot of artists out there, but there are a lot of people wanting their services, so if you cause a fuss or try to be cheap, you'll just get passed.
You don't want a bargain on a surgeon, and Halloween is no time to skimp on your makeup.

We may be magicians with a makeup brush, but we're not psychic, so be VERY clear with your vision, bring in pictures, and give a good vision to the artist when you book them.

And now a shameless plug... I am now taking bookings, so call Kiss and Makeup to book with me (Trevor)  on October 31st. 604.922.6292 or email me!

Book soon, or you'll end up looking like Terri Hatcher, and no one wants to be the makeup fail at a party.

Videos

Well there I go, forgetting all about my blog for way too long.
I am back, and I swear I'm going to try and write on here much more often.

Today I knew I was going to write something, but I had no clue what, so I decided to go through some YouTube makeup tutorials for inspiration, and it dawned on me, my inspiration would be the topic.
I want to share with you some YouTube Makeup videos I really liked. These people inspire me, so I am certain they will inspire you too.

We begin with a video blog that I love, and this blog kind of introduced me to the world of blogging. MakeupByEman is a great blog, and I start with her, not only because Eman is a very talented and knowledgeable artist, but because she is a friend of mine, and someone I have had the privilege of working along side.


The next blog I like to check out is Michelle Phan, she always has such interesting and imaginative looks.
I'll be honest, I don't think her technique is perfect, and I have no idea how she can work with such crazy bejeweled nails, but none the less her looks are always very original and in the end, look great.
Michelle not only does makeup looks, but a lot to do with the beauty industry like nails, skincare and hair as well. It's nice to see someone so passionate about the industry sharing all the tid bits she learns.

Next up, is a blog I haven't seen before, but one I stumbled upon tonight while surfing through the videos, and I can't even begin to describe how amazed I am at this video. I'm not even sure what made me click on it, but boy am I glad I did. Diamonds and Heels 14 gives a very personal look into her makeup routine, which you think won't be that exciting... oh look another pretty girl doing her makeup, oh yay!... but this girl not only showed her routine, she showed her insecurities, and went on camera without any makeup, something I would not be brave enough to do.

There are a couple other Youtube channels I like to watch every now and again, but I think these 3 should be a nice start for all of you, and if you're like me, you'll watch one, and then click on a suggested video at the end, and 4 hours later you realize you've just spent way too much time on the computer.

Right now would be a totally great time to put up a forth video, and have it be the launch of my Youtube career, but sadly I have been too lazy to start that. It is something I have thought about, and have wanted to start, so keep your eyes peeled, because I'm hoping to get that going very soon.

Face Charts

Hello make up lovers.
It's been a while since I've posted, and my deepest apologies for neglecting you, but I am back and have a great topic to discuss with you today.

As the title alludes to, I'll be discussing face charts.

I love face charts for so many reasons, they are great to help you practice your techniques, they're great ways to plan out looks before you apply them on someone, and they really help you perfect your blending, because blending on paper is more difficult than on skin.

 Now you're probably wondering, where do I get face charts?
They are very easy to find, they're all over online, just google search face charts and hundreds of them pop up, from all types of makeup companies.
You can also head to your favorite makeup counter and ask to see theirs, they're very willing to part with a blank one for you to copy, but don't be greedy, just take one and photocopy it, don't ask for 100 charts, cause then they will probably tell you to buzz off.

What makes a good face chart?
I'm glad you asked. What I like in a chart is when the face is straight on, that way the angles and proportions are symetrical, and you don't have to be a physics wiz to calculate proportional placement.
I also like when the face has a jaw line and face that is on both sides, that way it's  easier to have a more even contour and blush placement.

That's pretty much it, just have fun and play.
Remember practice makes perfect and with face charting you'll be a star in no time.
And don't forget to sign your charts, you want everyone to know who the artist is, and don't want anyone else taking credit for your work.

Now just for fun, here are some face charts I've done over the years...

Brow Blocking

Brow blocking can seem tricky, and like a lot of work, but it really isn't. There are several ways and techniques that can be used to block eyebrows, and depending on why you're blocking brows, some may be more effective than others.

A technique that a lot of drag queens, and theatrical performers use, that is quick, easy, and inexpensive is using a water soluble glue stick, that is the way I will be describing for you here.

All you'll need for this technique is a water soluble glue stick (I like Uhu brand glue).

Loose powder (Covergirl loose powder is my favorite. Baby powder is another great, inexpensive option),

Foundation (I use Make Up For Ever's panstick foundation, it is a caster oil based cream foundation stick, with great coverage.

You will also need a powder puff, and a foundation sponge.

Now for the fun part, the application.
*First make sure the brows are clean and dry, wipe out any products that may be on the brow, moisturizer, etc.
*Take your glue stick and place glue through the brow, going against the natural hair growth direction (from outside, in.) This will make sure the brows are fully coated in glue and stick down a lot easier.
*Now go over the brows in the opposite direction (nose to ear) and flatten the brown against the skin. It helps to add pressure while you're applying the glue, the pressure helps press down the brow, and keep it flat against the skin.
*Once the brow is coated in glue, take your loose powder and powder puff and lightly press on a generous amount of powder to cover the glued brow, and help set the glue quickly, right after lightly pressing, re powder the puff and press quite firmly against the brow, getting the hair as flat against the skin as possible, and make sure all the hairs are set down. I like to lightly run my finger back and forth over the set brow to see if there are any hairs sticking out or glued areas that haven't been set.
*I usually do 3 layers of glue and powder, to ensure that the brow is securely set, but how many layers you do will depend on how full of a brow you are working with.

^ One layer of glue and powder.

^ 3 Layers of glue and powder.

Once you have both brows glued, powdered and set, now it's time for foundation.

If you're in a hurry, like I often am, you can foundation the rest of your face in between layers of glue and powder, it helps speed things up, so that by the time you're setting your final layer on the brow, all that's left to cover in foundation is the brows.

Once you have covered the brows with foundation, take your foundation sponge and blend in the foundation over the brows to blend in with the rest of your skin.

*NOTE* do not use a sweeping motion to apply foundation over the brow, that will stretch out the skin, and can cause the glue to crack, use a patting motion to apply the foundation to the brow area.

Once the whole face is covered in foundation, take your loose powder and powder the entire face, making sure the brow area is well powdered, so that it is very well set, and stable for you to work with drawing on a new brow, and doing eyeshadow.

Once you've successfully blocked the eyebrow, you may notice, especially if you have dark colored hair, you can still slightly see through the block and foundation, not to worry, eye shadow, lashes, and any other makeup you're using on the eye will help to completely hide your natural brow.

If you're going for the blank canvas look, and not applying shadow and such, you'll need patience to layer foundation and powder to successfully camouflage the brow.

Best of luck, and remember, practise makes perfect!

PS. Don't worry about struggling to wash this all off, because the glue is water soluble, it washes right off. I use a makeup/baby wipe to remove all the makeup, then wash my face, with a little scrubbing on the brow, with my regular face wash, and it comes right off. No special removers needed.

Red Lip

Today I was going to write about what looks are perfect for the Holiday season, a classic cat eye and red lip, but then I remembered something I have noticed through my many years in the cosmetic retail industry, a lot of women are scared of red lips.

I have found that in general, a lot of women are scared of bright colored lips, but I’m focusing on red, because red looks good on everyone, yes, everyone. Red doesn’t discriminate, women of all ages, skin tones, life styles, can wear a red lip. Red lips can be dressed up in a gown and walk the red carpet, they can go with a suit and work at the office, they can be in jeans and a T shirt and go pick up groceries. There is nowhere a red lip doesn’t fit in.

I have no idea why this nude lip faze has taken off, and to be honest, I can’t stand it. We have lips for a reason, they’re sensual, they’re voluptuous, and they’re perfection. If humans weren’t meant to have lips, we wouldn’t, so accentuate them.

Now I know going from wearing a clear gloss every day to putting on a red lip is a huge leap for some, and I know it takes getting used to, but come on ladies, give it a try.

When I am working with a client who is looking for a dressier, more elegant look, I instantly put a red lip on them, and no matter how shocked they are at first to see a red lip, I tell them to trust me, and that by the end of the night they will be in love with their lips. Just like dentists (9 out of 10) come back and say that not only did they fall in love with the lips, but everyone else did too.

There are a plethora of red lipsticks on the market, so how do you pick the right one? In one word, try. There are orange reds, blue reds, classic reds, creamy reds, matt reds, and some reds even claim to do the dishes, just try them on, if you’re going to be trying on reds though, remember they stain your lips, so to get a good comparison, cleanse your lips with a good makeup remover in between colors, and make sure you have a good moisturizing balm for after you try them all.

Some brands that have some great reds (in my mind) are Guerlain, Dior, YSL, Chanel, Revlon, MAC, Elizabeth Arden, and many more.

Reds have been popular ever since before the invention of lipstick, so why break a time honored tradition by hiding your lips.

I want to close with something once said by Coco Chanel, that I have held close to my heart as a makeup artist, and strongly applies to today’s topic.

“There is no such thing as an ugly woman, just lazy ones.”